how to hem a knit dress: A Step-by-Step Guide
Introduction: Hemming a knit dress can be a daunting task for beginners, but with the right techniques, it can be a simple and rewarding DIY project. In this article, we will guide you through the process of hemming a knit dress, from preparing the fabric to finishing the hem. Whether you are a seasoned sewer or a novice, this step-by-step guide will help you achieve professional-looking results.
1. Understanding Knit Fabrics
Before you start hemming your knit dress, it is essential to understand the characteristics of knit fabrics. Knit fabrics are stretchy and have a tendency to curl at the edges. They can be made of various materials, such as cotton, polyester, or a blend of both. It is crucial to choose the right type of needle and stitch to ensure a secure and flexible hem.
When selecting a needle, opt for a ballpoint or stretch needle specifically designed for knit fabrics. These needles have rounded tips that penetrate the fabric without causing snags or runs. Additionally, choose a stitch that stretches with the fabric, such as a zigzag or a stretch stitch. This will allow the hem to retain its elasticity and prevent it from popping or breaking when stretched.
2. Preparing the Fabric
Before hemming your knit dress, it is essential to prepare the fabric properly. Start by washing and drying the dress according to the care instructions. This step ensures that any shrinkage occurs before hemming, preventing uneven hems in the future. If possible, iron the dress to remove any wrinkles or creases, as these can affect the accuracy of your measurements.
Next, measure the desired length of the dress. Keep in mind that knit fabrics tend to stretch when worn, so it is advisable to hem the dress slightly shorter than your desired length. Use pins or fabric markers to mark the new hemline, ensuring it is even all around. If your dress has a curved hemline, use a curved ruler or a plate to create a smooth and consistent line.
3. Cutting the Excess Fabric of a knit dress
Once you have marked the new hemline, it's time to cut off the excess fabric. Use sharp fabric scissors to trim the fabric, following the marked line. Take care to cut in a straight line and avoid jagged edges, as they can affect the appearance of the final hem. If you are hemming a dress with a curved hemline, make small notches along the curve to help the fabric lie flat.
Remember to leave a seam allowance of about 1 inch (2.54 cm) to accommodate for folding and stitching. This extra fabric will ensure that the hem is secure and won't unravel over time. If you are unsure about the length, it's always better to cut less fabric initially and make adjustments later, if needed.
4. Pinning the Hem of a knit dress
After cutting the excess fabric, it's time to pin the hem in place. Start by folding the raw edge of the fabric up to meet the marked hemline. Use pins to secure the fold, making sure the fabric lays flat and smooth. Take care not to stretch the fabric while pinning, as this can result in a distorted hemline.
If you are working with a curved hemline, it may be helpful to make small clips along the edge to allow the fabric to lay flat. These clips should be perpendicular to the fold and should only reach the marked hemline to prevent them from being visible in the finished garment.
5. Stitching the Hem
With the hem pinned in place, it's time to stitch it down. Set your sewing machine to a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch. This will allow the stitch to stretch with the fabric, preventing it from breaking when the dress is worn. Start sewing at one side seam, backstitching to secure the thread, and continue sewing all around the hemline.
Take your time and sew slowly, ensuring that the stitch catches both the folded fabric and the raw edge. Keep the fabric flat and smooth as you sew, removing the pins as you go. If you are hemming a dress with a curved hemline, pivot the fabric at the corners to maintain a smooth and even stitch. Backstitch again at the other side seam to secure the thread.
6. Finishing the Hem of a knit dress
After stitching the hem, it's time to finish it for a professional look. Trim any excess threads and press the hem using a pressing cloth and a low heat setting. This will help set the stitch and flatten any remaining curl at the edge. Be careful not to stretch the fabric or press too hard, as this can distort the shape of the dress.
If desired, you can also use a twin needle to create a decorative double stitch along the hemline. This adds a professional touch and helps the hem lay flat. Just make sure to use a stretch twin needle and adjust your machine's settings accordingly.
7. Trying on the Dress
Once you have finished hemming the dress, try it on to ensure the length is to your liking. Take note of how the fabric stretches and drapes when worn. If you find that the hem is too long or too short, you can easily make adjustments by unpicking the stitches and re-hemming the dress.
8. Caring for Your Hemmed Dress
To ensure the longevity of your hemmed dress, it is important to follow proper care instructions. Always check the garment's care label for specific guidelines. In general, it is recommended to wash knit dresses in cold water on a gentle cycle and to air dry them flat to prevent stretching or distortion of the fabric.
If your dress has a tendency to curl at the hem, you can use a fabric stabilizer or liquid starch to help it lay flat. Simply apply the product to the hemline before pressing, following the manufacturer's instructions. This will provide temporary stiffness and prevent curling.
9. Experimenting with Different Hems
Now that you have mastered the basic hemming technique, feel free to experiment with different hem finishes. You can try using a coverstitch machine for a professional-looking hem, or explore decorative stitches to add a unique touch to your dress. Just remember to choose stitches and techniques that work well with knit fabrics and maintain the garment's stretchiness.
10. Conclusion
Hemming a knit dress may seem challenging at first, but with the right tools and techniques, it can be a rewarding DIY project. By understanding the characteristics of knit fabrics, properly preparing the fabric, and following the step-by-step guide outlined in this article, you can achieve a professional-looking hem that enhances the overall appearance and comfort of your dress. So go ahead and give it a try, and soon you'll be confidently hemming all your knit garments like a pro!